South Luangwa National Park

The South Luangwa National Park is an amazing area.  Ellis and I have loved spending time here and have also learned a ton about animals, birds, and vegetation found in this area of Zambia.  We picked this safari based on recommendations from people who had been here before and we have not been disappointed at any point.  The concentration of game around the Luangwa river has 60 different animal species and over 400 different bird species.  The rhino sadly is not found here because it was poached to extinction.

The river runs just outside of where we are sleeping and we have seen elephant, crocodile, hippos, baboons, monkeys, giraffe, bushbuck, impala, puku and kudu right here at Thornicroft.  We have had elephant, monkeys, lions, hippos and baboons visit just outside where we sleep, some in the morning and night and others just at night.  If it is dark, we have to wait for the night watchman to walk with us to the main lodge area.  We have learned that elephants are silent, hidden and dangerous in the dark.  Seven people in the village have died this year from elephants.  Inside the park we have seen all of these plus others, such as warthog, leopard, zebra, giraffe, hyenas, buffalo, serval, porcupine, mongoose, scrub hare, squirrel, genet, jackal, waterbuck, and civet.  We have lost count of the types and number of birds we have seen, but include several types of herons, buzzards, vultures, eagles, sparrows, owls, guineafowl, doves, kingfishers, bee-eaters, hornbills, weavers, and storks.  Each type of bird has several varieties within and our guide has superb knowledge of the name and what makes it distinct. 

We have learned how our guide looks and listen to for the signals from the animals and birds on what is happening in the park each day.  Tracks and “poop” are signs he follows on the roads we travel in the park. We have found lions each time because of the signs from the animals.  The baboons bark to warn of danger, the kudu whistles, the giraffe swishes the tail and stomps the front leg, the vultures circle and nest in trees near the kill of the lions, the bushbuck look in the direction of danger, the squirrel has a call more like a bird to indicate danger.  Our guide knows the paths each animal travel and where they go for water.  Recently one if lion prides was broken and split by three young brothers.  They chased out the male in the pride.  This change has disrupted the normal patterns and the entire area is still in flux due to the change of leadership.  We found the male who was kicked out late yesterday and he was on the outskirts of where the game drives occur in this area.  He had four older females with him who are more attached to him.  We have had lions staying near our lodge also because of the disruption.  There are 3 females and one cub that we’ve seen.  This is the only remaining cub from the lion male who was kicked out.  If the three brothers find this one before it matures more, they will kill it too.  The good news for “Three Musketeers” is that the pride will be very stable for a while with them in charge because it is unlikely for younger males to try and take over three.  There is another pride further out that has six males, all brothers.  Leopards are common in this area and we found one waiting on a warthog to come out of its’ burrow.  It never took note of us and was only ten feet from our vehicle.  The wart hog was spooked by the vehicle engine starting and darted out, which led the leopard to see if babies were inside the burrow.  He went all the way in, disappeared and then came out without a meal.

We have seen areas of the park that are barren and look like a wasteland.  This occurred over 50 years ago when there were too many elephants for the land to support.  Apparently the entire park looked like this and slowly vegetation has returned and eventually will return in these barren areas.  Some elephants here have tusks and some do not.  When the poachers killed so many elephants, the species adapted and produced elephants without tusks.  We have learned about the African Sausage tree and how the hippos come at night to wait on the sausages to fall so that they can eat them.  Many animals like the sausage but the hippo is the largest consumer.  The sausage is spongy on the inside, much like our cucumber, but not edible for humans.  Some areas of the park look like a golf course – absolutely amazing!  The colors, water, and rolling landscape are stunning, manicured by the animals, and changing with the seasons.  Our mornings start very cool at sunrise.  We have put on every layer we have with us and then they provide additional blankets.  It is so cold even with all of this…yet by 9:00 a.m. we have shed most of our layers and are enjoying the warm sunny clear blue skies.  The evening is similar; we add layers as sundown approaches and then are cold by the time 8:00 arrives.  This park stays open until 8:00 p.m. which allows night drives providing a chance to see animals hunting along with more nocturnal species.

I must say that visiting here has been a very special treat.  Since Malawi is an entry point for this national park in Zambia, it is also easy to come here before heading back to the US.  The area is large and we have often felt like we have the park to ourselves.  The guides have respect for each other and share what is happening when we do pass other vehicles.  Ellis thinks the tea time is one of the best parts too of being here.  Yesterday a monkey did steal her cake she was having with her tea.  We decided the monkey knew we were easy targets because we backed away as she got closer.  The monkey was quite “cheeky” as our Australian friend, Dale, told us though to come under the main lodge area and take it from Ellis.  The staff here has been wonderful too us and again we’ve enjoyed meeting people from Zambia, Malawi, England, South Africa, Netherlands, and Australia.  I think this has really opened Ellis to so much of the world.  It has fed her desire to see other parts and learn other cultures as this has been such an incredible experience here in Africa.  As we begin our journey back to the US, it will take us three days since we have a day of travel to get back to Lilongwe, Malawi, then a day to Johannesburg, South Africa, then a day to the United States.  We both cannot believe that are sad to be leaving Africa and how fast our time has gone while here.  Once back home, we look forward to sharing pictures and reflections with you.